Tuesday, September 23, 2008

In Love with A Platter of Figs


We just got our copy of David Tanis' new book A Platter of Figs, and I'm in love. I try not to fall for all the new pretties, but this one has hit home. Tanis is the chef at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse for 6 months of the year and he has written a gorgeous, completely unpretentious book.

How can you not love someone who writes, "What makes a boy from Ohio, born in the wrong century, raised on Tater Tots and Birds Eye, end up wanting to eat like a Greek peasant for breakfast, a French peasant for lunch, and a Moroccan peasant for dinner?"

Aw shucks Tanis, you had me at "peasant".

In Platter of Figs, Tanis takes a moment to describe his past, but he's not trying to impress you with credentials, nor do you sniff false humility. I loved reading about how Alice Waters pretended not to hear him when he, hanging around as a young man, asked for a job over and over until one day the Panisse baker left to get married.

This book, organized by seasonal menus rather than food category, just oozes love of good food and good company. It is Tanis' philosophy that really gets me, such as his love for beautiful rather than pretty food; the natural over the gussied-up.

Tanis writes, "Simplicity is key. People who cook fussy food for their friends seem to have the least fun. I say leave that fussy food to those with a staff and a paid dishwasher... A meal needn't be fancy, nor should it take all day to make. But, that said, most of the menus in this book are not those 30-minute-specials-with-only-3-ingredients whose intent seems to be to keep youout of the kitchen. What's wrong with spending a little time in the kitchen? "

Granted that we all live busy lives, but I revel in my time in the kitchen. It is a chance to step outside the intensity of the work world and let the creative mind roam free. With it comes that timeless pleasure of sharing a meal with a loved one, or a group of friends. Of course work and stresses intrude and often supersede, but nonetheless, the food experience provides a target worth pursuing and a delightful canvas on which to paint.

While I love that chefs today get a chance to emerge from behind the curtain to applause, I'll admit that I'm a bit sick of the "celebrity chef". I do not watch food television, both because of limited time and because I don't find many of the "personalities" appealing, each with his or her own shtick targeting a particular viewer type (the bubbly, the geeky, the down-home country, the kitchen terror, etc). However I should not generalize, for my distaste does not apply to all (probably quite the contrary). As an example of something I really enjoy, I'll mention the Eric Ripert's toaster video pieces (link). The man is a culinary genius but he is utterly real and charming in these little spots.

I digress (how unusual, Giff). Christ, now he's talking to himself. The POINT is that I found Tanis' cookbook both delightful and inspiring. As for my own touch to this little post, I may not have a platter of figs to share, but I can leave you with a plate of plums. Consider it an homage to fading summer, in a melody of black, alderman and prune. And yes, I devoured them all in one sitting!

Plate of Plums

7 comments:

Stacey Snacks said...

I am in love w/ figs as well.
I eat them everyday in the summer for breakfast w/ yogurt.
I also make a beautiful salad of arugula/figs/parmesan reggiano.

I wish we could get there here on the east coast all year long.
My fig tree is ready for a burlap sac on its head for the winter!

Stacey

Giff said...

I am not looking forward to watching California revel in their continued local produce as we East coasters stumble headlong into winter!

glutenfreeforgood said...

I just ran across your blog. I got so caught up in exploring that now I've forgotten how I found you. Well, it doesn't matter anyway -- I'm just glad I did. I loved the Tanis quote and will definitely go out and buy this book. I hope you're receiving royalties!

Love your blog and I'll be back! Well written, beautiful photos, lovely content. It made for great early morning reading. Much more pleasant than the newspaper! Thank you!

In good health,
Melissa

Giff said...

well we're glad you found your way here melissa, and thank you for the kind note!

bee said...

gorgeous platter of plums. food "styling" gets boring after a while.

and a couple of those entrees in restaurants with "mashed sweet potato with a pomegranate molasses dressing over trout with green beans and shaved white truffle with half a leaf of arugula and a watermelon radish marinated in scallop jus" have me craving for a pot of homecooked rice and lentils.

Giff said...

lol yes, very bee. You're always so funny.

Tanis does spare a sentence early on to look very far down his nose at truffle oil (and other fads)

p.s. I don't actually think molecular gastronomy is a fad -- I think it is here to stay -- and I enjoyed watching marcel and richard blais work their toys on Top Chef, but it's not my style!

fashiongirl said...

Dude, I so want to come to dinner at your house!